Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Food Profile: Tofu

One of the topics that interests me most in the discussion of food is how an object or practice is viewed in different cultures. While food is an integral part of any society, each group treats their relationship with it differently, from production to process to consumption. These cultural differences were accentuated in our bento box experience. The sensation eating pickles made from items not normally pickled in today’s Western culture, the completely different texture of the Japanese cucumbers, Anne Allison’s description of the almost sacred preparation of the box compared to the United States’ more relaxed attitude surrounding the boxed lunch—all these elements made creating and consuming a bento box a very different food-related experience here at University of Washington than at a Japanese primary school.

Ann’s blog on the differing viewpoints on cucumbers in Japan versus the United States set the wheels in motion for me regarding my food profile. I wanted to explore the diverging uses and viewpoints of a food used in two cultures, one Eastern and one Western. The food item I chose—tofu—has a very different place on the table in the United States than it does in China.

A Brief History of Tofu

Tofu is manufactured in a method similar to cheese. Soy milk is coagulated, and the resulting curds are pressed into blocks. Tofu is widely used in both sweet and savory dishes, particularly in Asian, and is primarily added as a textural or nutritional element. Largely unseasoned, tofu has very little flavor on its own, and easily conforms to the flavor profiles of the dish in which it is being used.

Though little is known about ancient processing methods, evidence exists that production of tofu began in China as early as the first century A.D. Tofu was first made in the United States in San Francisco the late part of the nineteenth century, and the first American commercial scale tofu production factory, La Sierra Industries, was formed in 1929. Tofu became widely available as a product able to be purchased in the supermarket in the 1950’s.

Tofu is available in three different varieties, based on their texture. Soft or silken tofu contains the most moisture of the trio, and possesses a creamy, custard-like texture. It is most often used in Asian desserts or served with peppers and hot pickles, and is not often used in Western cooking, due mainly to a cultural bias against the soft texture.

Asian firm tofu is a second variety popular in Chinese and Japanese cooking. While substantially more firm than silken the silken variety, it is still fairly moist, particularly on the inside. Asian firm tofu contains a protective outer skin derived from boiling the soy milk during processing, giving it a texture and pliability similar to that of raw meat. This is the sort of tofu that the casual American diner can find in specialty markets and more authentically Eastern Asian restaurants, most likely in soups and vegetarian dishes.

A third type is Western firm, or dried, tofu. This variety of tofu has a dry, thick outer skin, and has a spongy, rubbery texture. Though edible on its own, Western firm tofu is easily crumbled, and often used as a base ingredient in processed soy foods. In Asian restaurants, it is sometimes cut into thin strips, boiled and served like noodles.

Musings on Tofu

What I found fascinating in my exploration of tofu, was the cultural divide between China and the United States in the way the societies utilize the product in their cooking. In the US, tofu is primarily thought of as a vegetarian-only foodstuff, with the average American having little to no tofu-to-palate contact throughout their entire life. I spent six years as a vegetarian, and listened to endless taunts from my family, all assuming that the only thing I ever ate was tofu. When I came home to visit, there would always be a block of it sitting in their refrigerator, and my mother would anxiously await to see what disgusting, meat-free concoctions I was going to prepare with it.

In reality, even as a vegetarian, I rarely ate tofu outside of Asian restaurants. I did however, eat a lot of soy-based products, many of which used dried tofu as a base ingredient. These processed foods had all been re-formed and flavors added to make it look and taste like meat. All of them had clever names such as soysages, chik’n patties, riblets that implied they were nearly indistinguishable from meat. Most of my vegetarian friends also eat their tofu in a similar manner. Even vegetarians cannot seem to get past the stigma that tofu is a lesser replacement for meat. They may be ideologically opposed to consumption of animals, but still desire to eat foods that (theoretically) taste like an animal product.

In China, however, while tofu is often served in a dish instead of meat, it is not thought of solely as a meat substitute. Indeed, many Asian dishes contain both meat and tofu. It is also used in a variety of desserts; the silken variety is excellent for custards and panna cotta-like dishes. Eating this creamy type of tofu is definitely an acquired taste for an American palate, as the mushy texture it possesses has been culturally engrained in Western recipes as unpleasant and overcooked.

Tofu is also processed and sold to the Chinese people in a variety of methods that would not sell in the United States. Dried tofu is allowed to ferment and is then pickled in salt water and vinegar, and eaten as is, or as a condiment for rice or noodles. Soft tofu is fermented in a fish and vegetable brine to create stinky tofu. This variety possesses an earthy, almost rotten scent, and forms a thick, crispy rind on the outside. It is also eaten as is, served with a hot and salty sauce.

Personally, I do not think I am in alone in thinking that eating tofu that smells like moldy cheese is unfathomable. Even though, I am aware of the culinary values of tofu, I still have a tendency to think of it as something undesirable, or something that I’ll eat if there aren’t any good beef or chicken dishes on the menu. I have a feeling there are a lot of bricks of Asian firm tofu sitting unloved in refrigerators all over the United States, with the hapless parents of vegetarians unaware that their children are nearly as culturally opposed to tofu as they are.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Recipe #6: My Week of (Processed) Meats (P)

The Experience

The world of processed food is a fascinating one. It is entirely possible to subsist off food that isn't really food at all, or has been processed to the point that it no longer resembles the original product. Ingredient lists are long and chock full of unrecognizable chemical formulas--my general thinking is the more "x's" in the name of the ingredient, the less likely it is to have been made from something edible.

While I don't shy away from food because of fat content or calories, I am fairly health conscious and eat as little processed food as possible, especially processed meat. But the fat, sodium and calorie content of these foods defies the imagination. For my blog this week, I had decided originally to eat nothing but processed foods, but I quickly amended it to eating one processed food a day. I simply couldn't fathom wasting all those fat grams on food that doesn't enhance my life in some way.

The following is a partial description of the foods I ate each day and the related experiences. Unfortunately, I didn't save all my labels, so I'm going to look up the nutritional information online and add it when editing for my portfolio. One thing of note is that nearly everything I ate had some sort of near immediate physical repercussion--indigestion, heartburn, water-retention, headache, an allergic reaction to MSG, etc. It seems the human body wants to reject much of this non-food as soon as possible.

Monday: Lean Pocket--Sausage and Pepperoni Pizza (7 grams of fat, 280 calories)

Originally, I set out to eat a standard Hot Pocket, but one small pizza pocket contained 23 grams of fat, and I knew I'd have to eat two of them to feel full. Instead, I opted for the Lean Pocket. I cooked them in slid them into cardboard sleeve designed to keep the pocket crispy and microwaved for 90 seconds. The sleeve did very little to keep it crisp, it was limp and some sort of murky tomato cheese sauce was leaking out of the end. In addition to the soggy crust, the inside was the temperature of molten lava and had a definite gluey texture. Everything tasted like salt. The sausage actually evaporated the minute it hit my tongue, and the pepperoni was awfully greasy for something that advertised itself as lean. I had prepared two of these, but I was barely able to finish one.



Tuesday: Quizno's Chicken Carbonara (19 grams of fat, 630 calories, 1830 mg of sodium)

I will admit to have eaten a sandwich from Quizno's on more than one occasion, but my tendency is to stick to a turkey with mustard on wheat, or something else of their lean menu. This time I ordered a chicken carbonara--chicken, bacon, mozzarella, mushrooms, Creamy Bacon Alfredo Sauce on wheat bread. When I looked up the nutritional information at home, I was actually surprised at fat and calorie content: I thought they would be much higher.

The sub itself was actually quite tasty, although the grilled chicken had that spongy re-formed texture that processed meat seems to possess. Again, the primary flavor was salt--there were 4 strips of bacon on it and the sauce was basically just salt in a liquid form with an emulsifier added to make it creamy (and a little offputting). Overall, the consuming experience was not so bad, but the extreme amount of sodium made me feel heavy and slow for the rest of the day.

Wednesday: Cool Whip (0 grams of fat, 20 calories)

This was by far the most disgusting thing I ate all week. I spit it out into the sink. It had an unbelievably fluffy texture that didn't break down when it hit your tongue, and tasted to me how a urinal cake or moth ball smells. I don't think there was an actual food item listed in the ingredidents. Yuck.



Thursday: Ramen soup--chicken flavor (14 grams of fat, 540 calories)


It had probably been 10 years or more since I had eaten ramen soup, and I was really taken back by the nutrional label--it was listed as only 7 grams of fat and 270 calories, but then it stated the tiny package was two servings! It was really hot that day, and the thought of eating soup was not that appealing; in general, I don't care for hot liquids, anyway. But I was game and broke up my noodles into the hot water and added the flavor packet. Immediately upon hitting the water, the noodles gave off the smell of old oil. The flavor packet contained turmeric, as Chad noted, and the broth was too yellow--it reminded me more of pee than chicken broth in appearance. Once the flavor packet was added, the prevailing scent was that of salt yet again. The ingredients stained the cup flourescent yellow, and there was a bubbly, greasy sheen on the top of the soup.

The noodles actually tasted pretty good until they got to soggy for my palate, but the chicken broth was horrible. It burned my tongue and throat, and not because it was too hot; I think it may have been some sort of chemical burn. It was also the saltiest of the sodium-laced items I ate during the week. I abandoned the broth after about two sips, but I still had an almost immediate MSG reaction. I think the rest of the class did, as well, because the energy level and conversational spirit dropped palpably after we ate the soup.

Friday: Aidell's Chicken and Portobello Mushroom Sausage (9 grams of fat, 180 calories)

Sausage is always a dicey experience for me, and I was especially skeptical of these as they were packaged pre-cooked. I heated them in the microwave and served them on fluffy white buns with Hidden Valley Reduced Fat Ranch dressing. Again, flavor-wise they were not bad (salt again), but the texture was highly unpleasant; the casing was extremely chewy and the sausage was gristly. Since I don't usually think of chicken as gristly, it made me begin to wonder what cuts of meat Aidell used in her sausage, and quickly abandoned it after one bite.

Saturday: Foster Farms Honey Roasted Turkey Cold Cuts (0 grams of fat, 25 calories per slice)

I had lots of fluffy white buns left over from the failed sausage experiment, so I used them to make sandwiches with processed pepper jack cheese and more ranch dressing. I cheated and added some raw spinach. While the lunch meat still had the creepy processed and re-formed into a meat log texture, the flavor was pretty good--smoky, sweet, and not too salty. I must admit, unlike the other items, I didn't toss or give away what was leftover, and have in fact eaten several sandwiches. I still wouldn't buy it again, though.

The Experiment

Sunday: Spam, and "Cheese" Sandwich on an English Muffin (Spam 16 grams of fat, 360 calories; Kraft Swiss "cheese" 4.5 grams of fat, 120 calories)

2 slices Spam
1 slice Kraft Singles Swiss cheese
1 English muffin

Up until this point in my experiment I managed to consume all of these foods without actually cooking, so I decided for the final day that I would cook something. The Spam was terrifying; after popping the top, it slid out of the container with wet plop, and the outside was slimy and gelatinous. Somehow I managed to slice off two pieces from the loaf (so probably 32 grams of fat) and placed in a pan that I sprayed with Pam for maximum processed food experience. I fried the Spam until it was browned on both sides, flipping it over after about 5 minutes. Next I placed the cheese on top while the meat was still in the pan so that it would melt (it had the same gluey consistency as the Lean Pocket cheese sauce). Finally, I placed it on an English muffin, and forced myself to eat the whole salty, slimy thing. It wasn't pretty. Never in my life have I experienced something so far removed from the animal it was once part of, and I'm fairly sure the ghastly aftertaste was animal cruelty.

On Monday, I'm eating nothing but vegetables and water.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Final Paper Free Write

I plan to write my food exploration paper on tofu. While I don't dislike tofu, I do find that I don't eat it very often--even if I'm cooking for vegetarian friends, I tend to veer my recipes to more vegetable oriented dishes, and use beans or peanuts as a protein substitue, particulary when making Asian food.

I'm interested in the origins of tofu, it's inception, and basic uses in different cultures (I'll probably narrow it down to two due to paper length--probably the US and China or Japan) and how it is processed, and whether or not the procedure in which it is produced is any different in Asia than in the United States. I also want to explore where the soybeans are coming from--are they genetically modified? Obviously, all of these is still in the inception phase, but since so much of this class has been focused on processed and "new" foods, that's definitely the direction I'd like to take it in.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Recipe #5: Chicken Fried Steak and Cornbread (P)

The Experience

This week's in-class cooking experiment was an extremely successful one. While I enjoyed the creativity involved in the previous bento box activity, I didn't feel that the end result was nearly as satifisying as the group preparation of collard greens/hoppin' John--not only in flavors, but also in terms of the communal cooking experiment. For the most part, the bento box was a solo project; even though we chose a partner, the preparation of the boxes was done alone and the selection and placement of the food items in the box was for me a personal experience. With our in-class cooking exercise on Thursday, we all got to feel what it was like to cook as a community. Though we divided into sub-groups, and the sub-groups divided even further in regard to division of labor, at the end of the day, the whole class gathered together and shared jointly in the fruits of our work.

Our group got to work pretty quickly. We were lucky enough to have Adam in our group, who brought in the recipe for the non-vegetarian collard greens, and had prepared them many times before. He naturally settled into a leadership role, letting us all know ahead of time what needed to be done and the order in which these tasks should be conducted. Most of the people in the group did prep work--washing and spinning the greens, frying the bacon, cutting the greens into squares for Adam to stir fry. My job was to chop the greens again after they had finished cooking and all the ingredients had been assembled.

While the greens were cooking, our group did a lot of talking and laughing--we discussed restaurants we liked and food we liked to prepare at home. We talked about class readings and experiments, and discussed how The Future of Food has made us all more aware of where our food comes from and how the price of what we eat is more than just money. Everyone seemed to have a good time. Even though we were relative strangers at the beginning of the class period, the simple act of cooking a meal together gave us all something in common and made us part of a community of sorts, even if only for a little bit.

The Experiment

The community cooking event in class was a very worthwhile experience for me, so I decided to extend it into the weekend by organizing another event in my home. I invited 4 of my closest friends over to make a meal with a lot of components together. Excited to have a new greens recipe, I prepared them again using Adam's recipe. We also made chicken fried steak, mashed potatoes, country gravy (the same gravy from my biscuits and gravy) and corn bread.

Chicken Fried Steak
5 steak filets (I let the diners choose how big or small they wanted their steak to be, and we used flat iron steaks)
Flour
Eggs
Salt
Pepper
Chili Powder
Cayenne Pepper
Mustard seed
Peanut Oil

This recipe is not an exact science, as I don't usually measure while I'm cooking. Since most of the ingredients go into the batter, I usually just add them to taste.

Cut the filets to the desired size and pound flat with a meat tenderizer. Place the flour on a palte and add salt, pepper, chili powder, cayenne pepper, and mustard seed to the flour. Open eggs into a separate bowl, and mix until just combined (don't froth them). Roll the steak in the flour, then dip it into the egg, and repeat until the meat is double coated. Drop into a wok of hot peanut oil and fry until the outside is golden brown (usually 5-9 minutes depending on oil temperature). Remove steaks from oil and drain. Place steaks in a 35o degree oven for another 6-10 minutes, keeping an eye on them the whole time so they don't get too dark. Serve with mashed potatoes and country gravy (we used the vegetarian version).

Corn Bread (recipe from How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman)

1 1/4 c buttermilk or yogurt (I've never made it with yogurt, so can't vouch for how it will turn out)
2 tbsp butter
1 1/2 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1/2 flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp sugar (you can add more if you like sweeter corn bread, but adding too much gives it an odd texture)
1 egg

Melt the butter in an iron skillet (or bread pan, whatever you're baking the bread in) on medium heat (about two minutes) then turn off heat. Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Mix the egg gently into the buttermilk, and slowly add this liquid mixture into the dry ingredients, stirring constantly (but not frothing). Once combined, pour the batter into the skillet of melted butter. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes, or until the top is a light golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the bread comes out clean. This recipe tastes best if the cornbread is served hot.

Sunday, May 4, 2008

Recipe #4: Twice Baked Potatoes (P)

The Experience

The film The Future of Food was one of the more profoundly disturbing documentaries that I have seen in a long time. Prior to viewing the film, I thought that I was fairly knowledgeable about genetically engineered food products, but it turned out that my awareness of the subject barely scratched the surface.

One of the more poignant aspect of the film to me was the prevalence of intellectual property law cases filed by the Monsanto company against small farms for growing crops that had cross pollinated with their genetically engineered seeds, regardless of how it happened--wind, birds, bees--despite the fact that these were acts of nature, courts all over the country have sided with Monsanto that these farms have violated the seed company's patents. These farmers are forced to pay levies for IP infractions, and to destroy thousands of seeds, many of which they had carefully cultivated for years before contamination by Monsanto product.

The Experiment

Twice Baked Potatoes

To commemorate the conclusion of Ozeki's novel, All Over Creation, I decided to make a dish using (non-genetically engineered) potatoes. I chose twice baked potatoes, which I served with a roasted chicken and a spinach salad (using the fat from the bacon in a dressing).

4 medium sized Russet potatoes
1/2 cup sour cream
1 1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated
4-6 strips of bacon, cooked and diced
1/2 cup mushrooms, diced
1 small to medium sized shallot, diced

With a fork, poke holes into the potatoes to keep them from exploding in the oven. Bake at 400 degrees for one hour, or until a knife slides easily through the potato. Remove and let cool for 30 minutes. Slice the potato in half and scoop the insides into a bowl, leaving the skins intact. Mash the potatoes. Add the cheese, bacon mushrooms and shallot. Add the sour cream and stir until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Spoon the mixture into the potato skins, and return to the oven. Bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Cool and serve with butter.